Affordable Sprinkler system repair and installation in Denver. Green Valley Ranch and Stapleton Sprinkler system start up and winter blowouts.

Sprinkler Terminology

 

Atmospheric Pressure Breaker (APB) – An older style of anti-siphon valve for the system; usually does not have modern test cocks to check system or perform blow out procedures; should be used in conjunction with master electric valve.

Ball Valve – This type of valve literally appears to be a steel ball that has been drilled through for the water to pass through it when the valve is in the open position; when closed the ball rotates to seal the pipe shut

Ball valve handles – the handles on the ball valves; often times coated with blue plastic

Bonnet – The upper portion of the vacuum breaker guts, on the Febco 765 model is amber colored and resembles a star.  The poppet is the lower portions that moves up to the bonnet to complete the seal

Cable/ Timer wire – The complete strand of timer wires usually wrapped in a shroud of black vinyl or brown vinyl.

Canopy – The lid/ cover to the vacuum breaker; will typically be bronze colored or black plastic.

Collar – The rounded cap on the sprinkler head.  The stem passes through the center of the collar.

Common Wire – This is the specific colored wire (commonly the white wire) that is attached to the “com” port in the timer and supplies power to the electric valves.

Copper pipe – Is typically L or M type and used above ground to connect vacuum breaker to the house and the manifold.

Electric Valve – In simple terms; this acts as the electronic door that opens and closes the station under orders of the timer and allows water to pass through to the sprinkler heads.  It contains a diaphragm, solenoid and upper and lower housing.  They can be installed inline or 90 degrees and are containing inside the irrigation box with a typical green cover/ lid to protect them from the elements

Febco 765 – The most common vacuum breaker on the market; the guts are plastic and are specific to the size of unit.  3/4 and 1 inch parts are not inter-changeable.  The 1 inch canopy is very large and the 3/4 inch canopy is very small.

Gate Valve – This type of valves appears to look like a common rounded hose spigot handle you would find on an outdoor hose bib.  (Usually found in older homes, sometimes with a drain sometimes not) These valves are notorious for failing since a literal metal gate is dropped down onto a metal receiver and metal on metal is never great for stopping water – at least not long term.

Irrigation Box (IB) – The container/ box usually underground, that housed the electric valves and/ or the manifold and the manifold drain, if so equipped

Manifold – The staging area of the electric valves and water until the electric valves signal the water to pass through.  This section is 24/7 active all the time.  Often made up of glued together PVC parts or pre-formed PVC tees.  Often has a drain attached to the manifold for draining purposes.

MP Rotator – a special modern style of sprinkler head nozzle that actually rotates and throw streams of water at differing angles.  This particular nozzle does save water over a standard nozzle but the tradeoff is not as much water gets placed on the lawn  

Overgrowth – This is public enemy #1 to the pop up sprinkler headThe thatch and overgrowth of grass will crowd the sprinkler stem and prohibit smooth unobstructed movement of the stem up and down when the system turns on/ off.  Often times this stem will get mowed over and cut by lawnmowers and string trimmers resulting in gallons of wasted water and the loss of pressure in the zone.  Regular trimming around the collar of the head is crucial to great efficiency out of the sprinkler head.

Poly elbow –  Ends a run of pipe and joined together with pinch or hose clamps

Poly tee – joins two pieces of poly pipe together with the use of pinch clamps or hose clamps.

Polyethylene Pipe (Poly pipe) – Typical sprinkler pipe usually rated to 100 psi operating pressure; used in most of the main lines and lateral lines of the system.  Usually black in color

Polyvinylchloride (PVC Pipe) – In layman’s’ terms – (white plastic colored pipe) the thickness should be rated at schedule 40.  Schedule 80 which is thicker and stronger than 40 is acceptable but more expensive and harder to find.  The PVC is glued together with primer and glue.  Should not be used above ground due to it’s non Ultraviolet rating and deteriorates in the sun and may crack unexpectedly

Poppet – The lower smaller portion of the guts of the vacuum Breaker.  They move up to seal against the bonnet.

Pop-up Sprinkler Head – This type of sprinkler head is a fixed position head (unless a MP Rotator or Rainbird rotary nozzle is attached to the stem) it literally “pops up” and then retreats when the zone turns off.  A common problem is “sticky stems” when the stems fail to retreat into the collar or body housing.  This is usually caused from too much overgrowth that prohibits the stem from going down unobstructed and the stem becoming scratched by dirt and debris that rubs against the stem

Riser – The threaded portion that attaches to an elbow or tee and connects the sprinkler head to the elbow or tee.  Sometimes the riser is an actual elbow and or tee

Rotary Sprinkler Head – This type of sprinkler head pops up but has the added feature of a rotating stem which can be preset and adjusted to a determined arc and then returns to starting position and repeats this process over and over until the zone shuts off.

Rotary Sprinkler Nozzle – MP rotator and Rainbird rotary nozzle

Schedule 40 PVC – Standard type PVC for sprinkler systems; usually white in color but can also be gray.  It is stamped with SCH 40 on the parts.

Schedule 80 PVC – a thicker stronger type of PVC, often gray in color.  It is stamped with SCH 80 on parts

Solenoid – This is the device that allows the diaphragm to open up and allows the water to pass through the valve body.  It has two wires that run the current through the timer and creates a switch to turn off/ and on the zone. It attached to the top of the electric valve and can be moved manually to operate the electric valve from the irrigation box.

Standing water pressure – This is the average water pressure taken from two of more hose bibs/ spigots, and divided by the number of hose spigots tested.  Water should be still/ not moving or “standing” during this test/ reading.  Nothing else demanding water should be running during this test

Stem Pressure – This indicates the firmness of the stem while the station is running (Is it soft and mushy; able to be pushed down with minimal force or is hard and firm and resists pressure when palm placed on top and pushed downward)

Test cocks/ ports – these are very small “baby ball valves” usually mounted to the side of the vacuum breaker housing and used to test the unit and do blowouts.  Sometimes they are mounted directly to the ball valves as in the Wilkins 720 models.

Timer/ Controller – The electronic brains of your sprinkler system; controls each individual station on the system, also the length and time the station runs, customizable dates to water etc.   

Timer/ Station Wire – The wire that is attached to a particular station on the timer; the corresponding color wire will be in the Irrigation box unless the cable has been spliced and timer wires colors may not be consistent or the same is splicing has occurred.

Common wire – The wire inserted into the “com” or common port on the timer and supplies power to the electric valves; commonly the white wire but can be any color

Vacuum Breaker Body Housing –The main area under the canopy that houses the guts (Bonnet and poppet) of the vacuum breaker; usually has a vertical and horizontal ball valve connected to the housing.

Vacuum Breaker/ Anti-Siphon Valve (VB) – Commonly referred to as a bell Housing  due to the shape of the Canopy and the Vacuum Breaker Housing resembling a Bell.  In simple terms this device stops water from being back-siphoned into your home drinking water system.

Valve Diaphragm – The “guts” of the electric valve; resembles a rubber gasket and is moved up and down by the solenoid

Valve drain – This is usually found on the sprinkler system shut off valve and should be located between the valve handle and the vacuum breaker.  (It is not that uncommon for these drains to be put in backwards and have the drain on the active  water side) used in an emergency shut down procedure and draining of the interior pipes.

Wilkins 720A – A common model of vacuum breaker with a black plastic canopy and three silver colored screws that hold the canopy in place.  The guts of this unit whether 3/4 inch or 1 inch are identical and interchangeable; it’s guts are mostly metal unlike the Febco 765 whose guts are plastic.

 

March Madness for Sprinklers

As the warmer temperatures start to show themselves in Colorado, it’s often very tempting to think about turning on your sprinkler system in March.  My advice – DON’T.  Unless you are a master at doing Emergency Shutdown procedures and don’t mind doing this every time the temps fall below freezing.  The risk of having hundreds or possibly thousand’s of dollars of damage to your sprinkler system just isn’t worth it.  Not to mention the potential for your basement to flood or foundation damage to occur if the Vacuum Breaker or manifold breaks from freeze damage; you should keep in mind that this area of your system is active water – always on 24/7.  If this area breaks, the water will gush out the whole day or night until you get home from work – God Forbid you are on vacation when this happens.  The Moral of the story is to just refrain from turning on the system too early.

Where many new home owners and those new to Colorado’s Bi-Polar weather patterns sometimes get “fooled” is the latter winter months of February and especially March.  As all Colorado natives know, it’s nothing to have a beautiful sunny day with a high temperature in the 60’s or even 70’s during these months only to have a low temp the same evening of 32 and below.  This is the Gotcha moment.  Many people focus on the high temps and think it’s been so nice out, I’m going to fire up the sprinklers; forgetting the low temps that will freeze and destroy the system later that night.  The good news is, that even though you can’t start the system up yet there are still plenty of things you can do right now to get off to early success and great looking lawn:

  1. Rake your yard – yes, raking sucks…there’s no way to sugar-coat it, however; leaves left on the lawn will absolutely destroy your lawn and you will have dead patches all over your lawn.  This also helps break up all the dead grass and thatch that has built up over the off season.
  2. Inspect your sprinkler heads – trim the overgrowth from around the collars and check for obvious cracked parts, or damaged heads etc.   A well trimmed sprinkler head serves many purposes:
    • Easy to locate if adjustments are needed or repair
    • Avoids the most common problem of sticky stems (Stems that pop up and don’t go down) this is often due to grass squeezing the stem constantly and then chokes the stem when it’s trying to go back down into the body.
    • Helps identify problem areas of the lawn; for instance if you see an area struggling in your yard and starting to turn brown you can quickly view where the heads are in relation to the brown area, often times it’s a clogged nozzle or something very easy fix because you can see the head location in the yard
  3.  Trim bushes/ trees – many times overgrown bushes and trees stop the water from getting to where it needs to go, your lawn.  A good trim here goes a long way to ensure success in the yard
  4.  Apply Pre-Emergent Crabgrass treatment – once the crabgrass germinates it cannot be killed without also killing your lawn.  The time to kill it is before it germinates.  A good time to apply is in March; if you wait until April and we have an early spring you may be too late
  5. Edge the lawn – This is a great time to to edge your lawn and give it that extra something; a nice clean cut manicured look.  Even if your lawn doesn’t resemble a golf course, just having the edges trimmed can really add to the overall appearance of your lawn and make it look a whole lot nicer

Do these few things listed above and your off to great start.  Don’t take the bait and turn the system on too early.

 

Tree root sprinkler damage

Video dealing with broken sprinkler lines from damage caused by tree roots. Lakewood, Colorado.

Sprinkler System Freeze Damage

Febco 765 1″/ frozen Poppet

cracked ball valve

Cracked watts canopy

Wilkins 720

Sprinkler Freeze Damage Examples

 

vacuum breaker freeze damage denver vaccuum breaker freeze damage Frozen Sprinkler example Denver Frozen Sprinkler System picture

New Landscaping Sprinkler Mod

Denver Sprinkler System Landscaping

If you’re having some landscaping done be sure to think about your current sprinkler system and the coverage you will you need.  You may be fine with just adjusting some of the current sprinkler heads or you may need to have a new zone installed.  If you need help

Taming the “leaking sprinkler” head

Taming the “leaky sprinkler” head

Do you have a chronic leaking sprinkler head in a low lying level of your yard? If so, you are probably plagued with things like:

-Wet mushy spots
-Constant wasting water while the zone drains
-Smells of putrid stagnant water

The good news is there is an easy fix. Install a sprinkler head with a valve check, this stops the water from “leaking” out of the head once the zone shuts off
No more mess, mushy spots, bad smells or wasted water.

– Dan the Sprinkler Man

leaky sprinkler head

Before – Wet, mushy, standing water around head

how to fix a leaky sprinkler

After –  Dry